INFINITO OR MORE KNOWN AS THE NOSE, MR ALESSANDRO GUALTIERI IS AN ARTIST WITH A CAPITAL ‘A’, WHOSE LIFE COULD BE READ, LEARNED AND FOLLOWED THROUGH HIS PERFUMES. RAW, PURE AND STRAIGHTFORWARD – THE SHIT GETS REAL WHEN ONE GETS A DOSE OF HIS SCENTS. AND I MEAN “SHIT” IN MANY DIMENSIONS AND MEANINGS WITHIN THIS WRITING.
THE NOSE IS CRAZY
Mr Alessandro Gualtieri visited Crème de la Crème Tallinn Boutique to share some about his perfumes, and was also asked about life and style. In 2007 he launched his own perfume line called “Nasomatto” meaning in Italian “crazy nose”. The perfume range that contains rather scandalous and sexy names is definitely one of a kind, it is truly controversial and at the same time extremely attractive. The ingredient-related information is almost missing on the packaging, and your usually long and sophisticated product stories are replaced with a few hitting sentences.
The Nose is keeping it simple. You have to feel and figure it out all by yourself. Work with your imagination, memories, senses and fantasies.
So we worked on and sniffed those nine highly addictive odors, meet –
DURO is a pleasantly hypnotic scent that enhances all the manifestations of male strength, it is about sweat and being a man;
ABSINTH is about giggles and fun, it was born during the secret absinth parties, the content of this bottle is irresponsible and a bit hysteric;
NARCOTIC V where the letter ‘V’ stands for Venus, is an elixir of attraction, calling out overwhelming female sexual power;
HINDU GRASS is about patchouli – patchouli here, patchouli there, patchouli almost everywhere, it is the scent that circulates around the belief in universal peace, love, and warm affection of humanity;
SILVER MUSK rolls onto the stage like quicksilver, it is about the uncatchable dreams and fantasies. Interesting fact is that many people can’t smell it, it is the odor of a super-hero;
PARDON dives into nostalgia of gentlemen clubs, masculine elegance and charm, it challenges the inside dandy.
And now drumrolls, please, one of the signs – BLACK AFGANO – the perfume that actually started my relationship with haute parfumerie. It took Mr Gaultieri six years of smoking, scenting and creating the perfume, it’s about the first hit, about the best quality of Hashish, that gives you that temporary bliss;
CHINA WHITE invites you on a journey and reveals the strength of fragility.
Last but not least – BLAMAGE is about the failure and acceptance of the fact, it’s the renewal of one’s mindset. It is about moving on and opening new doors.
Recent documentary “The Nose – Searching For Blamage” shows it’s viewers the journey towards the scent of a perfect failure. Our expectations are often unmet and we’re often disappointed. We make mistakes and these mistakes work like keys towards progress. Blamage is about the acceptance and a new start. Actually a restart, because we are constantly moving on our paths anyhow.
Does Mr Gualtieri wear those perfumes himself?
The answer is “No” and the explanation is easy. These perfumes are in the history. They are his history. “What’s in the past is in the past. It’s done,” he says. He lives in the moment and prefers to write his memoirs in the scents. “Like for example this is what I’m working on,” he stretches his nail-colored hand and I detect the strongly hypnotic, sweet and bold aroma.
IT’S THE SHIT
As our meeting goes on, and we have finished with Nasomatto, the expressive Italian grabs my hand and says: “That’s a sign! What are you doing tonight!?” Pointing at my infinity tattoo. A sign? A sign of a couple of things. A sign of his new project called Orto Parisi and a sign of his middle school nickname Infinito.
Here we get to the point that Alessandro’s discourse around the project is all about “the shit”. He puts it in a funny closing: “The idea behind it is that there should be a bit of shit everywhere.”
With Orto Parisi the perfumer gets raw. He goes towards raw senses, freshness and the body. In and out of the body. Parisi was a name of his grandfather, who used to collect his feces in the buckets to later fertilize the soil of his garden.
“But let’s be honest, it all started from my anus. I was really obsessed with it. I’ve been photographing it and /…/ It was important for me also to get back to the ground, to the roots and the freshness of the raw. Back to the earth where it all started,” explains Mr Gualtieri.
With his new project, The Nose wanted to create something that is also connected with the human soul. He says that for him all the hidden parts of the body that carry more smell connect to the soul. These smells are the mirrors of the soul.
Orto Parisi perfumes have long formulas, and they tend to change and develop over time, depending on a body, skin type, and of course the persona wearing them. Please welcome –
STERCUS where the shit plays the main role, being the indication of healthiness;
BOCCANERA meaning “dark mouth” is all about the quality chocolate;
BRUTUS is brutal and imbued with alcohol, being very appealing to Russian women;
the winner of our hearts is VIRIDE that is green, luxury-green;
and the scent that I pick up and am hypnotized by for the next 24 hours is BERGAMASK, a cologne-based scent that changes and develops, swirls around the body slowly creating a strong and mysterious cobweb of aroma.
Orto Parisi collection is more than simply impressive. It’s a work of art.
THE NOW IS ART
What is now?
“Now is about art,” says The Nose. The art of experience. For Mr Gualtieri now is about “getting out of the bottle”, sharing scented experiences and impressing the public audience and himself through scented happenings and performances. The Nose is planning in the near future to set up public olfactive installations in collaboration with other artists and cultural activists.
Being sort of a observer and sociologist on his own, he has been also testing people and their perceptions. For example he has been wearing the most disturbing and disgusting scents while riding elevator up and down to detect people’s reactions.
“My work is always about attraction and rejection. Otherwise it would be boring. I want people to experience it with me. These feelings give me the freedom to create without the limits,” says Mr Gualtieri.
Perfumery is first and foremost about the feeling. The feeling without any meaning-borders. The Nose exemplifies: “Perfume is about the feeling. If I wake up and feel feminine, I put on a feminine perfume or wear pink… Or whatever. I mean most people aren’t creative at all; they are technical people – the hardware guys. I got to where I am because of who I am. I don’t believe in plans and deadlines… You work, see what happens, feel and adapt. You progress along with your work.”
One spray in the name of perfumery and another to celebrate the creativity and individuality. Cheers! We take our last shots and agree: “Next time in Amsterdam!”
Thank you, Alessandro and Rita for such an inspiring day and enlivening evening, dear Kai for the extravaganza and professionalism, and warm regards to the lovely Crème de la Crème Tallinn Boutique team.
Written by Julia Ahtijainen